I have always dreamt of taking a lie-by-the-pool, soak up the rays, read trashy books and drink tropical drinks resort vacation with my husband. But our honeymoon was spent zipping around Europe, the pace of which didn’t seem to match our post-wedding haze, and the other traveling we’ve done together has also been of the super active go-and-see style. So this year for our anniversary we planned a do-nothing trip, it was to be the relaxing tropical honeymoon we never had. Our destination: the sun soaked, wave-lashed region of Mexico called Los Cabos, which includes San Jose del Cabo and Cabo San Lucas, on the Baja Peninsula. It proved to be the perfect spot for honeymooners, even us perpetual ones.
Don’t worry, there is more to Cabo than what you remember from your wild college spring break past. The funky fishing town that was once known as a party hearty vacation spot boasting of bars with names like Cabo Wabo and Squid Roe now doubles as a high-class resort destination with top flight golf courses, romantic gourmet restaurants and tony hotels. Although the craziness rages on, there is indeed a more peaceful, shall I say classier, side of Cabo waiting to be discovered.
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We discovered it at the legendary Palmilla resort (tel. 800-637-2226). Originally built in 1956 to cater to Hollywood types like John Wayne who came to Cabo for Marlin fishing, the hotel underwent a $13 million renovation in 1996 to join a new wave of luxury in the area. What made the hotel affordable for us was that we planned to go in late August, during the off-season. We were promised a $200 rate for a room that goes for $475 during high season and the fourth night of our stay would be free. Sounded like a deal we couldn’t pass up. The only catch was that the temperature during the summer months could reach a blistering 95 degrees.
Ironically, we landed in Cabo in the wake of Hurricane Dennis; it was chilly and pouring rain. We were more than a bit disappointed because it only rains about a week out of the year in the area. We started to feel better when we arrived at the collection of white-washed, red-tile roofed buildings that comprise the Palmilla and were presented with the best Margaritas we had ever tasted upon check-in.
Our room was No. 3, one of the older hacienda rooms, with a simple décor of a bed with a chunky wooden Mexican-style headboard, a couch and a ceiling fan. The bathroom was small, but elegantly tiled, and had a sunken shower for two. The newer rooms in the 115-room hotel run about $300 a night in the off-season. The best part of our room was its view. We looked out on the hotel’s spectacular horizon pool and brightly-tiled swim-up bar. Just past the pool and the many palm trees was the turquoise Sea of Cortez.
Cabo Info
Your Money: American dollars are welcomed virtually everywhere in Los Cabos; however, be aware that if you are breaking a large bill, you’re likely to receive your change in pesos, which, due to the unfavorable exchange rate, you’ll want to spend before you return to the States.
Say It: English is widely spoken, and you can easily visit Cabo without a knowledge of the Spanish language. Still, brush up your "por favor" and "gracias," so no one will mistake you for an ugly American.
No Passport Required: American citizens can visit Cabo without a passport, as long as they provide authorized proof of citizenship (an affidavit or original birth certificate) and a legal photo i.d. (like your driver’s license).
Upon Arrival: The Los Cabos airport is about a 35 minute drive from Cabo San Lucas and many resorts. If your hotel doesn’t provide airport transportation, and you’re on a budget, select a group shuttle van instead of a private taxi.
The airport (and town) will be crawling with time-share pitchmen who will offer you free transportation, meals and activities in exchange for sitting through a sales presentation meeting. While it might be tempting, thinking carefully before committing yourself to two hours stuck in a hotel conference room being given the hard sell.
Operator, Please: Although phone service continues to improve, you may not have a phone in your room, and public pay phones are rare. You’ll probably have to make calls through your hotel’s front desk and there will be a service charge, so if you’re on a budget, do all you can to avoid calls home.
The Logistics: Some of the newer resorts are relatively isolated along the coast, so if an easy stroll to the village is a priority to you, be sure to inquire about the distance from your accommodations to the two towns.
Getting Around: When possible, secure a cab from the doorman of a hotel or restaurant (even if you aren’t staying there) to increase your personal security. Remember to tip the doorman and he will also answer your questions about how much the fare should be. Upon securing a cab, ask the fare to your destination. Taxis don’t have meters and your best way to be taken somewhere without being taken is to make the deal up front.
Be Savvy: Strolling vendors crawl the beaches selling trinkets, including blankets and "silver" jewelry. Although quite lovely and a memorable souvenir, the "silver" is often in fact nickel, so spend accordingly.
Insider’s Eats: Enjoy a casual breakfast at The Office, a beachside shack where there’s always a wait for a table… but it’s worth it. Sink your toes into the sand and enjoy the view of Los Arcos while you work through a plate of chilaquiles and a Conga.
Need a break from Mexican food? Romeo and Julietta’s is a popular spot for American-style Italian food, pizzas, and the Ceasar Salad, which actually originated in Mexico, not Europe.
The Trailer Park at La Golondrina -- an open air restaurant adjacent to an actual trailer park -- is the Cabo insider’s perennial favorite. What it lacks in atmosphere it more than makes up for in super-fresh sea food. Vacationing ex-Beatle George Harrison once jammed with the house mariachi band after dinner. | | | |
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After the storm passed, our daily plan went like this: eat our complimentary breakfast of Mexican sweet rolls and coffee on our private ocean-view patio, stake out a spot by the pool, and settle in for some serious reading and relaxation amid the incredible setting. We welcomed the cold face towels and fruit cups the staff brought around to pool-goers. We took a break for lunch at El Jardin, the outdoor restaurant serving the most delicious chips, salsa and guacamole and chicken tostadas. Occasionally, we went down to the beach for a swim in the warm water.
At dusk, we usually took a long beach walk and then headed to dinner at the hotel’s La Paloma restaurant. It was a bit on the expensive side, but the grilled sea bass (the Palmilla is known for its private fleet of fishing boats) and lobster risotto cakes were memorable. After dinner, we hung out at the patio bar overlooking the moonlit sea and were serenaded by a cheerful Mariachi band on some nights, a romantic flutist on others.
It was our intention to stay put at the resort, but the friendly couples we met at the pool, several of whom were honeymooners, would report to us on the adventures they had in Los Cabos. One couple rented a convertible Bug at the hotel’s rental car office (about $60 a day plus insurance) for a day of exploring beaches and snorkeling. The snorkeling and scuba diving in Cabo is among the best in the world. Tio Water Sports offers various snorkeling and scuba tours, one of which explores an underwater shipwreck, sea caves and a virgin coral reef ($75-$125 per person; 011-52-114-24444).
Another couple boarded a pirate ship for a sunset cruise which offered a view of the famous arch, El Arco, the huge rock formation marking the point where the Sea of Cortez and the Pacific Ocean meet (about $35 per person; 011-52-114-75453). There are several catamarans, sailboats and yachts that take vacationers on snorkeling trips during the day and sunset cruises in the evening.
A group from our hotel chartered a fishing boat. And another took what they described as a wild Jeep ride in the mountains (about $125 for two). Others regaled us of tales from the hard-drinking bars and cigar rooms of Cabo, which hearkened to the Cabo I remembered.
One night we actually did venture off the Palmilla premises and visited the new and exclusive Las Ventanas al Paraiso resort (800-525-0483), which was located further down the 18-mile stretch of highway between San Jose del Cabo and Cabo San Lucas known as hotel corridor. Ventanas is an elegant derserty feeling place. Rooms are replete with fine artwork, a bathtub with water jets and telescopes for stargazing. We enjoyed dinner at the indoor-outdoor restaurant with an expansive ocean view. The resort is pure honeymoon heaven if you can afford it at $475 and up a night.
There are many other hotel options along hotel corridor. The Westin Regina, a 295 room 9-story hotel, boasts of seven pools. In the high season rooms go for approximately $260 a night. The Moorish-looking Pueblo Bonito Rose asks $205 a night. The Spanish-owned Melia Los Cabos, on an inviting stretch of beach, charges $280. The cacti-covered Twin Dolphin, one of the older Cabo hotels, is still a good choice and charges $275 during high season from November through May. A great value is the charming 62-room Hotel Cabo San Lucas set on a lovely beach. A spartan room goes for $100 a night; suites start at $255. Most of above hotels reduce room rates during the off season. A luxurious Ritz Carlton hotel currently under construction is set to open sometime in the next year.
Cabo is also full of notable eateries. The Pitihayas at the Hacienda Del Mar Ocean and Golf Resort is known for Pacific Rim fare. Tequila, in San Jose del Cabo, is famous for its tequila shrimp. And Mi Casa in Cabo San Lucas is a colorful outdoor café with authentic Mexican food.
On the last day of our Cabo vacation, we were finally feeling antsy. I took a cab into San Jose del Cabo for souvenir shopping. I found some folk art, including the Huichal Indians’ work made of yarn, beeswax and wood. My husband golfed at one of the area’s championship courses designed by Jack Nicklaus ($150 for 18 holes). It was almost too much exertion. When we returned to our hotel, we hit the Palmilla’s oceanfront pool, hung out at the swim-up bar and were immediately restored again.