Once a windswept ghost town, Colorado's romantic Dunton Hot Springs is a blast with a past. WEDDINGBELLS magazine went on location to capture the romance of this Wild West hideaway. Check out "Dream Country," the resulting gorgeous 12-page fashion feature, and "Full Swoon," a story brimming with western wedding ideas, all in the Fall/Winter 2003 edition of WEDDINGBELLS.
You get a taste of what's to come, a delicious mix of raw western wildness and nicely mellowed luxury, the moment you leave out-in-the-middle-of-nowhere Durango airport and step into one of Dunton Hot Springs' top-of-the-line SUVs. The two-hour chauffeured drive (the last long leg up a rambling dirt road) is a comfortable thrill served up on creamy leather upholstery. Fine views of woods, meadows and mountains glide past. You spot herds of wild elk, a coyote and then a rabbit, and suddenly you've arrived.
Cradled in a small pocket of the West Fork Valley in a corner of the Colorado Rockies, tiny, perfect Dunton Hot Springs seems fully morphed from the pages of a Zane Grey novel. Many of the buildings, including the saloon, the dance hall and the bathhouse, are original to the town. Hardly bigger than a football field, the town was first inhabited by assorted gold miners and other misfits in the late 1800s. (There's good evidence that Butch Cassidy and the Sundance Kid holed up here before knocking over their first bank in nearby Telluride.) But looks can be deceiving, as you'll see every time you walk through a door.
Inside of the dozen uniquely decorated cabins the full extraordinary flavor of this place comes alive. Each has been sensitively restored with meticulous care but, like walking up to a sumptuous buffet, you're forgiven for not appreciating how well the table bears up. It's the sunken, spring-fed stone bath (easily accommodating two happy adults up to their chins) in the Well House cabin or the butter-soft, deerskin-covered bed snuggled next to a wood-burning stove in the Major Ross cabin that will rivet you. Quirky touches, such as the magnificent antique Mongolian wedding bed in the Honeymoon cabin, add spice to the mix.
In the Vertical Log cabin, your feet are warmed on the heated slate floor on your way to either the gigantic showerhead that replicates a heated rainfall or the large, antique copper bath wrapped with windows overlooking a private view of a forest glen. Even petite Bjorkman's cabin enthralls with a charmingly authentic, time-tripping interior, right down to the wooden shutters tied with red ribbons on the tiny windows.
Arguably the most seductive spot to spend the night, however, isn't a cabin at all. A simply beautiful stark white tepee is erected each spring and fully furnished with queen-size bed, antique carpets and candles. Gazing up from the bed you can watch the stars slowly dance across the sky through the adjustable vent at the apex of the poles. The part-time adventurer will appreciate the fact that you can book the tepee for just one or two nights and then spend the rest of your holiday enjoying more conventional indoor comforts.
Roughing it has never been so glamorous, a glamour underscored by the outstanding works of art and photography scattered everywhere. The dance hall alone features three works by Perry Ogden from his 7 Reece Mews series of giant photographs, and an important collection entitled Cadillac by pioneer color photographer William Eggleston. In one cabin you'll find a gallery of antique portraits of authentic cowboys and girls; in another, an edgy modern print.
Beyond these civilized amenities, the great outdoors doesn't get much greater than here, flanked by sweeping stands of aspen and, in the distance, mountain peaks cresting 14,000 feet. Activities range from a heavenly picnic-for-two to hair-raising heli-skiing. Enjoy horseback riding, mountain bike riding, hiking, climbing (including peak bagging), snow shoeing, cross-country skiing, river rafting, and world-class fly fishing, depending on the season. Day trips offered include visits to see petroglyphs or nearby vineyards. A little farther afield are Monument Valley, the Canyons of the Ancients, and the Mesa Verde, home to awe-inspiring Anasazi ruins.
The activity that requires no effort at all is likely the most popular, though: floating sublimely in one of the three natural hot springs on the property. The large, steaming pool inside the bathhouse can get you cooked-noodle relaxed in no time. Ending an evening counting shooting stars while soaking outdoors is a sexy diversion any time of year.
All this action can work up an appetite, the better to savor some of the best dining in the region. Serving only seasonal, organic and often locally grown produce, a typical Dunton Hot Springs meal is anything but typical southwestern fare. At lunch you might be presented with spectacular platters of sushi. Served family-style at a large ranch table, dinners become celebrations of great food, music, conversation and wine chosen from an impressive cellar that harbors gems from local vineyards as well as Opus One, Chateau d'Yquem, Chateau Lafite-Rothschild, Cristal and Dom Pérignon.
When you want a quieter, more intimate setting, you can request a romantic dinner for two in the library on the far side of town. Unassuming from the outside, this hideaway surprises with a cathedral ceiling, a circular staircase that leads to a wraparound catwalk and a large fireplace. Here you can snuggle close together on the bearskin rug, oblivious to the rest of the world.
Sitting on a stool in the saloon, an elbow propped on the spectacularly carved bar, you find that Dunton's smooth blend of history and hedonism goes down particularly well. It's a rare treat that attracts such discerning celebrities as Tom Cruise and Princess Caroline. But for couples planning a wedding or honeymoon, the heart-thumping romance of this wild and classy outpost is reason enough.
Dunton Hot Springs is open year-round for individual or group bookings. The entire town is regularly reserved for private events such as weddings, so check availability when booking. Rates, which start at $500 per night, are per couple and include all meals and access to the hot springs. Facilities include a yoga studio, massage room, a fully equipped darkroom for amateur photographers and free high-speed Internet access. Additional charges apply for private transfers to and from Telluride (one hour away), Cortez (one hour away) or Durango (two hours away) airports via luxury SUV. For booking information, see www.duntonhotsprings. com or call (970) 882-4800.
Planning at wedding at Dunton Hot Springs
What better way to celebrate a marriage than to get an entire town hopping? With a saloon, dance hall and a sprinkling of luxuriously appointed cabins, Dunton Hot Springs is the ultimate party town. After dancing up a storm, soak away sore muscles in a steaming hot spring. The whole place can be booked for an exclusive and very memorable affair, accommodating up to 150 for the ceremony and reception. The open-air chapel is set against a stand of trees with a 35-foot waterfall off to one side. An elegant dinner reception can be held in the dance hall or outside in a wildflower-filled meadow. Party tents can also be arranged. The overnight capacity is limited to just 35 guests, but gorgeous National Forest campsites and small hotels in nearby Dolores, Rico, Telluride and Cortez can host the rest of your group.
With over 20 years' experience in event planning (including involvement in eight Olympics and 19 Super Bowls!), general manager Keith Evans knows how to throw a memorable affair. Operations manager Kelly Rogers has an extensive background in entertainment production and catering. With either or both at your service, a wedding at Dunton Hot Springs can be extraordinary, unfolding as simply or as grandly as you like.
Romantic escapes
Dunton Hot Springs offers a honeymoon package that includes all meals, unlimited use of the hot springs, a bottle of champagne, and two spa treatments. Book this package for four days/three nights at $1,500 per couple or for six days/five nights at $2,450. Additional nights are $475. Ask for the Honeymoon cabin, set a little apart on the bank of the picturesque West Fork River, which hugs one side of the town. Another romantic option, for a surcharge, is Well House, a charming cabin that surprisingly sports a large-enough-for-two spring-fed stone bath.