As she walks down the aisle, all eyes are on the bride, her gown, her glow. But once the ceremony begins, she’s sharing a double bill with you, the groom, and your tuxedo should be a perfect fit. The bottom line is that you can’t overestimate the importance of finding a suit that fits you well, so don’t borrow one or drag out the senior prom tux. Instead, go to a proper tux store and work with the tailor. When you’re wearing a suit that fits right, you’ll feel more comfortable on the day, it will cut down on the perspiration and you’ll look great. But there’s more to consider than jacket size and inseam. The style of the suit you choose can make you look your best. Here are some classic looks for the four body types.
Photo: Sandi Foraci Photography
If you’re tall and slender or medium height and build, the choice is easiest for you: any style. But the perfectly fit suit is still just as important. Thinner men look good in a double-breasted jacket. Ask that the shoulders be padded a little more than normal and the waist be taken in to a comfortable extent. These tactics make the body seem more muscular and create a great line. The trousers look best when the legs are slightly fuller than normal with a higher rise. But to be honest, with this body type, it’s hard to go wrong with your tuxedo choice.
If you’re tall and husky or very muscular, the shawl-collar tux is the right choice for you. This is the smooth, thinner collar without notched lapels. The jacket is usually single-breasted with one button. Wearing a jacket that is long enough is very important too. With hands relaxed at your side, your fingertips should reach the bottom of the jacket. As with any good suit, your shirt cuffs should ride about an inch beyond the jacket sleeve. If you have a wide face or a thick neck, your collar and tie choice is important too. You don’t want to look like you’re being choked.
- Choose the spread collar rather than the wing tip and avoid thin bow ties. This doesn’t mean you should appear in a giant ’70’s butterfly bow tie, just choose one that’s in proportion with your face and neck.
- The jacket should feel a little loose so you can move easily and let some air circulate. Ask that the trouser legs be slightly wider if you have large or muscular thighs for the sake of comfort and looks.
- Avoid the double-breasted jackets since the buttons tend to focus the eyes on your midsection and make it look wider. If you are on the heavier side, you may think of choosing a vest over a cummerbund since they look and feel less constricting.
If you’re on the shorter side and muscular or stocky the choice of a shawl collar is the right one. Again, this is the smooth, thinner collar without notched lapels. The jacket should be single-breasted and the button should be quite low, around the belt line to make your torso appear longer and leaner. It may be counterintuitive, but choose a jacket without a lot of shoulder padding. Your own shoulder line will help you look less broad in the photos. Pleated trousers can also be a good idea but aren’t obligatory. Some people think they’re slimming, but opinions vary. The legs of the trousers should be cut as low as possible without looking unfinished, making the break between the trouser leg and the shoe as subtle as possible. If they are angled a little in back, they’ll make your legs look longer. As with the huskier men discussed above, avoid wing-tip collars and very small ties if you have a large face or neck. You may be more comfortable choosing a vest over the traditional cummerbund if you are on the heavier side.
If you’re shorter and thin, you’ll look best in a single-breasted jacket with a single button placed low. This will lengthen the lines of your look. If you’d like to appear a little broader, a notched or "peak" lapel is a good choice. You would also look fine in a double-breasted jacket and achieve the same effect. The trousers could be pleated with reverse double pleats if you’d like, and the trouser legs should break just above your shoes, angling slightly downward in back. Smaller bow ties are the best choice for your frame as are vests with an elegant, understated pattern.
Just a final word: if the choices are sparse, and in some parts of the country they might be, you’ll probably be shown single breasted suits with different collar types. In the absence of the perfect jacket, opt for the shawl collar. It’s a classic. You can’t go wrong.
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