Wedding Gown Fabrics

Poets have sung its praises. Explorers crossed land and sea to bring it back to their Queen. And odds are, you'll wear it on your wedding day.
Silk has been a favorite with brides through the centuries. As you shop for your wedding gown, you'll hear the word uttered with awe and reverence. In a margarine world, silk is, to borrow a phrase, "like butter." 
But what, you may be asking, is silk? And why are there so many other names for it? How are the different types of silk unique? We have the answer to all your questions.
Humble Origins
Glorious, glamorous silk is (prepare yourself) made from the cocoon of silkworms. For you biology majors out there, we're talking about the Bombyx mori, in that oh-so-important stage where he leaves wormdom behind and become a moth.
Sorry. It's true. The charmed filaments used to make the most expensive, most luxurious, most cherished wedding gowns in the world come, essentially, from bug nests. You'll probably want to try to block that out on your big day.
After hatching, the larvae of the Bombyx mori feeds on the leaves of the mulberry tree. When the larvae has matured, it attaches to a branch and spins a thick, strong cocoon from a single continuous pale yellow filament: silk. In a production environment, the cocoon is unwound after about a week, and the silk processed. To ensure adequate reproduction of the species, a controlled number of larvae are allowed to complete their cocoon phase and hatch into adulthood, then reproduce.
The History of Silk
It is thought that silk was discovered and first produced in China around 2650 B.C. Even for the ancient Chinese, silk was highly valued. Fear of losing control over this valuable commodity led to the institution of laws against the export of silkworm eggs; the penalty for violating the law was death. Carefully guarded too were the seeds of the mulberry tree - the staple of the Bombyx mori's diet. It is said that in A.D. 550, moth eggs and mulberry seeds were finally successfully smuggled to Constantinople, and soon after, the Byzantium empire became famous for its silk fabrics. The Moors brought the raising of silkworms and the weaving of silk to Spain and Sicily in the 8th century, and in the 12th century, those countries flourished in the silk trade. In particular, the Italian cities of Venice, Florence and Lucca, and the French city of Lyon became famous for silk between the 13th and 15th centuries. The French Huguenots took the practice with them to England. Later efforts to establish silk cultivation in the American colonies were largely unsuccessful.
Silk Production Now
The Chinese carefully protected their silk industry for centuries, and Asia continues to dominate the world of silk production, although Japan has supplanted China at the top of the list. Malaysia, India, Thailand and the Philippines are also major silk producers. A kind of wild silk is made in India and China from the cocoon of the tussah worm, which feeds on oak leaves instead of mulberry. It is also common now for silk to be produced mechanically, but the most valued silk is still handmade, and the most coveted handmade silk is that of the original silk source, the Bombyx mori.
How It's Made
Silkworm cocoons are stripped of their silk filaments by a delicate reeling or unwinding process. The goal is to get the entire cocoon to unwind in one long filament, which can easily reach over a half a mile in length. However, because the materials are so precious, even shorter, broken threads are used to make particular kinds of silk valued for their natural imperfections. Next, the raw silk filament is thrown - it is twisted and doubled to create threads of various thicknesses and strengths. It is boiled in soap to remove natural gum, then dyed or bleached. Specialized looms are used to weave the silk threads into any of the possible types of silk fabric. The fabric may then be printed, if desired.
Kinds of Silks
The different kinds of silk are the result of the application of different processes and weaving techniques. You're likely to find wedding gowns and bridal apparel made from many of the types listed below; often two or more kinds of silk are used in combination with each other.
Unique variations upon each type do exist, but generally moving from lightest to heaviest:
Chiffon is made from fine, tightly twisted silk yarns, and is often layered over heavier, stiffer and shinier fabrics; it is also commonly used for veils.
Organza is sheer like its cousin chiffon, only a bit crisper; it is often layered as chiffon is, or used for trains and veils.
Gazar is a criss-cross weave of silk; it is ideal for trains or full sleeves because it is lightweight and won't drag.
Crepe is made from a highly twisted yarn, which produces a very flat, malleable fabric that drapes well.
Satin is woven with floating threads to create a slick surface. Satins can range from the super-soft, super-silky charmeuse to the thick, rich duchess satin.
Taffeta is a plain weave of silk, known for its crisp, rustling sound; it is commonly used for full, wide-skirted gowns.
Faille has a delicate grosgrain pattern, with subtle crosswise ribs; it is usually rather heavy and best suited for full ball gowns.
Zibeline is woven from straight fibers, all laid in a single direction, which produces a shiny nap.
Additionally, you may find attire made from these more natural looking silks:
Shantung is woven from short waste threads, possessing natural knots on a smooth surface.
Dupion is also woven from short threads and also has a slightly rough, nubbed surface

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